Helpful Planting Tips
Tree Planting Tips
Tree Planting Tips - Shade, Ornamental, & Evergreens
Prepare hole depth so that the top 2”- 4” of the root ball is above ground level. Dig hole width at least 12” wider than width of root ball on all sides. Place tree into hole. With excavated dirt, mix in 2 bags of soil amendment (compost, etc..). Backfill amended soil into hole until half filled. Stake tree to stabilize and straighten. Remove top 1/2 of wire basket and burlap. Place a hose into the hole with a light trickle. Complete backfilling hole with amended soil to ground level. Use excess soil to create a reservoir around base of tree. Water tree deeply to settle soil.
Be sure to water newly planted trees approx. 2-3 times a week through the first growing season.
Many of our plants are grown in black plastic pots. These come in many sizes and can be used several times. Please
Reasons for pruning
Prune to promote plant health
Remove dead or dying branches injured by disease, severe insect infestation, animals, storms, or other adverse mechanical damage.
Remove branches that rub together.
Remove branch stubs
Avoid topping trees. Removing large branches leaves stubs that can cause several health problems. It also destroys the plant's natural shape and promotes suckering and development of weak branch structures.
Prune to maintain plants; intended purposes in a landscape, such as:
encouraging flower and fruit development
maintaining a dense hedge
maintaining a desired plant form or special garden forms
Prune to improve plant appearance
Appearance in the landscape is essential to a plant's usefulness. For most landscapes, a plant's natural form is best. Avoid shearing shrubs into tight geometrical forms that can adversely affect flowering unless it needs to be confined or trained for a specific purpose. When plants are properly pruned, it is difficult to see that they have been pruned! Prune to:
control plant size and shape
keep shrubby evergreens well-proportioned and dense
remove unwanted branches, waterspouts, suckers, and undesirable fruiting structures that detract from plant appearance
Prune to protect people and property
Remove dead branches
Have hazardous trees taken down
Prune out weak or narrow-angled tree branches that overhang homes, parking areas, and sidewalks – anyplace falling limbs could injure people or damage property
Eliminate branches that interfere with street lights, traffic signals, and overhead wires. REMEMBER, DO NOT attempt to prune near electrical and utility wires. Contact utility companies or city maintenance workers to handle it
Prune branches that obscure vision at intersections
For security purposes, prune shrubs or tree branches that obscure the entry to your home
Pruning begins at planting time
Pruning is really the best preventive maintenance a young plant can receive. It is critical for young trees to be trained to encourage them to develop a strong structure. (See Figure 1)
Young trees pruned improperly or not pruned at all for several years may require heavy may require heavy pruning to remove bigger branches to prevent trees from becoming deformed.
At planting, remove only diseased, dead, or broken branches. Begin training a plant during the dormant season following planting.
Prune to shape young trees, but don't cut back the leader.
Remove crossing branches and branches that grow back towards the center of the tree.
As young trees grow, remove lower branches gradually to raise the crown, and remove branches that are too closely spaced on the trunk.
Remove multiple leaders on evergreens and other trees where a single leader is desirable.
Pruning young shrubs is not as critical as pruning young trees, but take care to use the same principles to encourage good branch structure. Container grown shrubs require little pruning.
When planting deciduous shrubs, thin out branches for good spacing and prune out any broken, diseased, or crossing/circling roots.
When planting deciduous shrubs for hedges, prune each plant to within 6 inches of the ground.
Soil Amending Tips
Heavy clay soil along the Northern Front Range needs to be amended for plants to establish vigorous and healthy root systems. Amending the soil saves water, increases root penetration, and aerates the soil. A general rule of thumb for amending heavy clay soil for sod areas or perennial beds would be to add 3 cubic yards of soil amendment per 1000 sq. feet of coverage. When planting trees and shrubs it is recommended to further amend the soil when planting, specific amounts of amendment will vary depending on the size of the plant and placement.